When most people think of Benidorm, images of towering skyscrapers, vibrant nightlife, and buzzing beaches immediately come to mind. But just behind the glossy postcard version lies a different Benidorm—one that tells a story of fishermen, cobbled alleys, blue-and-white facades, and timeless charm. Welcome to Casco Antiguo, Benidorm’s Old Town, where the true soul of the city quietly thrives, waiting to be discovered.
A Step Back in Time
While the Levante and Poniente beaches are lined with modern high-rise hotels and apartment blocks, the Old Town stands as a stark—and beautiful—contrast. Perched on the rocky outcrop between the two bays, this area is the original settlement of Benidorm. Walking through its narrow, winding streets feels like slipping into another era. Here, you won’t hear the roar of mopeds or see neon signs flashing the latest drink deals—instead, you’re greeted with the gentle clinking of cutlery from local tapas bars and the soft murmur of conversation in shaded plazas.
What makes the Old Town especially charming is its labyrinth of alleys, many of which are too narrow for vehicles. With every turn, you encounter something new: a tiny ceramic-tiled bench, an old man sipping café solo in a doorway, or a hidden staircase leading to yet another picturesque corner.
Mediterranean Aesthetics: The Blue and White Palette
One of the most striking features of Casco Antiguo is its architecture. The houses are small, often only two or three stories, and are traditionally painted in a mix of bright white and vibrant blues—colors that reflect the Mediterranean light and keep homes cool in the scorching summer months.
This distinctive palette isn’t just for aesthetics. Blue is traditionally thought to ward off evil spirits, while white reflects purity and light. Together, they create a calming, harmonious atmosphere that makes wandering the alleys feel almost therapeutic.
Look out for ornate iron balconies, hanging flower pots, and detailed ceramic tiles that often tell stories—some religious, others commemorating famous locals. Every building here feels like a canvas of history and culture.
Iglesia de San Jaime y Santa Ana: The Spiritual Heart
No visit to Benidorm’s Old Town would be complete without a stop at the Iglesia de San Jaime y Santa Ana. This 18th-century church, with its iconic blue-domed roof, is a beacon of serenity amid the bustle of coastal tourism.
Located at the highest point of the Old Town, it offers stunning views over both Levante and Poniente beaches. Inside, the atmosphere is reverent and peaceful. The church is dedicated to Benidorm’s patron saints, and locals frequently visit to light candles and say a quiet prayer.
Legend has it that in 1740, a wooden image of the Virgin of the Suffrage was found floating in the sea. It was brought ashore and placed inside the church, where it became a symbol of protection for the people of Benidorm. Every year, a festival is held in her honor—Las Fiestas Mayores Patronales—featuring processions, fireworks, and days of celebration.
Tapas and Tradition: A Culinary Journey
Forget the chain restaurants and all-you-can-eat buffets. In Benidorm’s Old Town, tapas culture is alive and deliciously well. Small, family-run bars and taverns are tucked into nearly every corner, each with their own specialties and secrets.
Head to Calle Santo Domingo, affectionately nicknamed Tapas Alley, and you’ll find a vibrant stretch of establishments offering everything from garlic prawns and grilled octopus to Iberian ham and local cheeses. Here are a few must-visit spots:
- La Cava Aragonesa – A local institution with a dazzling selection of over 50 different tapas. Try their signature montaditos (bite-sized open-faced sandwiches) and wash it down with a glass of vermouth.
- Bar Mal Pas – Hidden just behind the church, this cozy bar serves excellent pulpo a la gallega (Galician-style octopus) and offers views of the sea from its terrace.
- Pintxos Aurrera – A Basque-style bar where the pintxos are lined up like artwork. Grab a plate and pick what catches your eye!
The beauty of eating in the Old Town is that it’s not just about food—it’s about ritual and rhythm. People don’t rush. Locals hop from bar to bar, share plates, tell stories, and toast to life. It’s social, sensory, and wonderfully unpretentious.
Balcón del Mediterráneo: A View That Speaks
Wander down from the church toward the edge of the rocky outcrop, and you’ll find the Balcón del Mediterráneo, a white-marble lookout with one of the most stunning panoramic views on the Costa Blanca. Locals call it “El Castillo,” as it sits on the site of a former 14th-century fortress that once protected the town from pirate attacks.
The iconic checkerboard floor, blue-and-white railings, and sea breeze make it a favorite spot for romantic proposals, holiday photos, and a moment of reflection. Below, waves crash against the rocks, and on clear days you can see as far as Altea and even the Peñón de Ifach in Calpe.
At sunset, the place glows gold. Musicians sometimes play Spanish guitar, and street artists sketch caricatures. It’s as much a cultural space as a viewpoint—a place where modern visitors and ancient history blend seamlessly.
Local Legends and Hidden Histories
Benidorm’s Old Town holds stories within its stones. Did you know, for instance, that long before it became a tourism giant, Benidorm was a tiny fishing village with a population of under 2,000? In the early 20th century, it was famous for its tuna traps—almadraba—and sardine fishing.
Many alley names still reflect the city’s fishing roots: Calle del Mar, Calle del Pescador, and Plaza del Castillo all whisper tales of a simpler, saltier life.
There’s also the mystery of the “Casa de los Gatos”—the House of Cats—a small home adorned with cat sculptures and ceramic cats peeking from windows. Local legend says an old woman once lived there with dozens of cats, and she became a kind of protector of the Old Town. Some say her spirit still watches over the alleys at night.
A World Apart—Yet Side by Side
The most fascinating thing about Benidorm’s Old Town is how it exists in stark contrast to the city’s modern skyline, and yet, it feels right at home. From a distance, you can see the blue dome of the church peeking through the steel and glass giants, like a reminder of the city’s beating heart beneath its tourist-driven surface.
While the newer parts of Benidorm cater to mass tourism, budget flights, and sunburnt revelry, the Old Town offers a different kind of travel experience—one rooted in culture, memory, and discovery.
Whether you’re a curious wanderer, a foodie on a mission, or simply looking for an escape from the chaos of beach bars and pool parties, Casco Antiguo welcomes you with open arms (and probably a plate of croquetas).
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